On a house this age, we start by checking whether the opener logic board or the motor itself has failed - on 2000s-era chain drives it's the board more often than not, and that changes whether we're replacing a $40 part or the whole unit. Springs on doors from this build window are usually still within spec size-wise, so a straight swap is common rather than a full recalculation. We check roller condition next; the stock nylon rollers from that era get brittle and start binding in the track, which shows up as noise before it shows up as a stuck door. If the door itself is original steel and the panels are still square, we're often looking at hardware replacement only, not a full door swap - that's the cheaper, faster job and it's the right call more often than not on houses this age.